Siwa Safari with Hamad – Part II

After the sand dunes and the fun at Siwa's White Desert, and the shade and the short rest, we drove towards Shyata; a small uninhabited oasis that has a salty lake, 45 kilometers west of the town of Siwa. A 'natural protectorate' area surrounded by palm trees where gazelles would come to feed and birds would visit in their migrating journeys.

This is where we sat down with Hamad on a mat in the shade of a palm tree for a cold drink, and a chat. We learnt that because of his skills and knowledge of the desert, he also works as a 'protectorate guard' or a ranger, protecting the desert from poachers. He also told us how his father had taught him how to drive in the desert and helped him know it by heart. When a guide is still an apprentice he would lose his way in the wilderness and would wait till nightfall and watch for Capricorn, star to the North. Then he would find his direction; keep it to his left if he wanted to go west, or between the eyes if he wanted to go north, and so on.

Nayzak (The Meteor):

We stopped to take some photos of the visitors from outer space. These are meteors that fell from the sky into the desert of Siwa back in the 1990's. They are black rocks that look like burned hard wood.

Beer Wahid (Hot and Cold Lake):

On our way back, about 12 kilometers away from Siwa, Beer Wahid has a bubbling hot spring. After driving for 35 minutes through vast expanses of yellow sand, it is a wonderful sight to see a blue lake surrounded by palm trees. The temperature of the water is around 40 degrees (Celsius) and is often known as the 'natural Jacuzzi' of the oasis. It is rich in sulphuric and iron elements so it is very popular among visitors for its therapeutic effects. But we decided to stop for lunch at the nearby 'cold' lake of Beer Wahid.

A large group was already there and had a volleyball-net stretched between two jeeps, and were really noisy. Sometimes it is difficult to comprehend why some people would drive such a long way to bring their noisy habits along – but then again, each to his own enjoyment!

Luckily they were preparing to leave and we had a chance to enjoy the surroundings. Some of us decided to cool down in the water and others preferred to stretch on the mat, relax, and yes, chat some more. It was a chance to catch up on our conversation with Hamad.

He explained how cruising in the desert relieved him from whatever bothered him. Many visitors from the Arabian Peninsula (Gulf Area) come to the oasis from mid August to mid November to exchange their extravagant urban life style with the simple ways of the desert – a retreat and a cleansing process.

Listening to our guide, one soon recognizes it would be very wrong to think that the dwellers of the oases are not as 'civilized' as urban inhabitants; they just have a less complex life style with a different rhythm, and yet their traditions and the way they deal with the rest of the world are far from simple while their intricate social system seems to put them at peace with themselves and with their environment.

One could feel Hamad's sense of 'host'; a responsibility and natural feeling that made him eager to please us as his guests. He spoke in a low voice and was never annoyed by our questions. On the contrary, he explained his way of life clearly with a strong feeling of loyalty to his homeland and a profound expression of anxiety towards hostile visitors who might rip it off its natural beauty.

Just before sunset the driver took us to our last destination before dropping us back at the hotel. It was an area full of high sand dunes - suitable for modern-day sand-boarding while obviously to him they were more than simply that.

He sat calmly on one of the dunes with his legs crossed, and looked towards the horizon watching the sinking of the sun into that grand sea of sand. He blended peacefully with his surroundings. Both he and the desert had something in common, one realizes. Both appeared to be very modest in what they could offer; but as soon as you start a conversation with either you discover a generous spirit that is remarkable in every aspect.

Our safari trip with Hamad* turned out to be not just a journey to the extraordinary realms of a landscape far and beyond, but also a cruise into the ongoing discourse between Man and Nature.

"As you recollect, you understand better."

Practical Information

1. Going on a Safari requires special permission from the military; hotel receptions apply for it on your behalf. It costs about $10 (USD) for non-Egyptians

2. Always have a photocopy of your passport handy at all times

3. Safaris can be arranged through your hotel reception. A jeep in a good condition costs about $150 (USD) for the day.

4. Make sure to take your hat, sun glasses, scarf, sun screen and plenty of water. Summer months are the hottest; it is best to avoid them while planning your tour.

5. You could either arrange light lunch made of tuna and white cheese with your Safari operator or just bring a snack along for the day.

6. Sand boards could be hired from shops down town for around $10 (USD), and you could always share them with friends!

7. Respect local traditions of Desert Oases.

8. Alcohol is not sold locally, and all kinds of liquor are not welcome

9. Alcohol also causes dehydration!

* We strongly recommend him as your desert guide. His local number is 0161898196

All quotes above are from "The Pyramids Texts", a book by Gamal al-Ghitani

Read the part one of this story